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An online travel journal

Sunday, March 07, 2004

So I finally get around to posting the updates that have been sitting on my laptop the day before I fly home, Go figure

I got my ass kicked out of China. The whole thing starts back in old Katmandu where we had planned to get visas for China. However once there we had to go get a group visa for Tibet. The guy getting that for us told us not to worry about the visas for China as that could be handled in Lhasa, Tibet. WE went on our merry way in to Tibet and had a great time. Once in Lhasa our guide went to get us a special stamp to let us go to the rest of China. He came back and told us that we could only get one for the next two days, but fear not as it could be extended in Chengdu. We get to Chengdu were we a re damn near almost scammed by a smooth talking guy named John who claimed to be an English teach and offered to take us to see the Pandas. Fortunately we were warned by a guy that new him, that he will ask for money and the not talk to you if you give him any. We ere never in any real danger, just setting our selves up for an uncomfortable situation. SO back to the Visa thing, we go the PSB to get an extension and they promptly inform us that we cannot get an extension and have to leave China. A few angry phone calls to our guide later and we are on a flight to Beijing and form there Tokyo. SO Here I am now in Tokyo having spent a day sightseeing and a day now getting a new hotel room and enjoying my last evening before I fly home tomorrow. So far the highlight of Tokyo has been the museum of cartoons and video games, the two car car show and the world’s greatest grocery store.
I talked with our guide tonight about the situation in Tibet. IT was one of those conversations were you start out slow, feeling the water, then move in to the sensitive stuff, neither of us being quite sure that we could trust the other. It turns out that his grandfather was killed during the Cultural Revolution and that his cousin was imprisoned for 13 years. He himself temporally lost his guide license a little while a go because a member of a group he was leading left a picture of the dalhi lama as a n offering at a temple. HE also told us of secret get together to watch movies like “seven years in Tibet” and how they hid pictures of the Dali Lama, only bringing them out at Tibetan New Year. HE also mentioned how during the more repressive times, they would burn butter oil candles in the toilets so that they would not be discovered. It is an amazing and heart breaking experience to talk to someone who cannot live as they wish and has to hide many aspects of the culture. It is a story that has been played out for a long time whether it be Indigenous peoples during colonialism, Pagans in Medieval Europe, or even homosexuals in contemporary America. There is one group who is so damn convinced of there righteousness where it be because of some book they have, or the strength they posses, or their certainty in their own intelligence and ability, that they oppress another group who is perceived to be a threat the fragile little make belief reality they have constructed. Nothing in this world is as dangerous as a belief the one has found absolute truth, not a damn thing. As a former Prof of mind Jim once said “fear the true believer.” The one who believes fully and without question cannot tolerate the existence and success of a competing framework, because the very existence of such a thing threatens there belief that they have found the one true path.
It has been a while sent I updated this damn thing, so there is quite a bit to say. On our two full days in Port Blair we revisited the cellular jail, this time during the day. We also went out to Ross Island, the former British colonial administration thingy. Basically this island was built up in the 1800’s then abandon about say 50-100 years ago. The buildings have been overrun with foliage and such. Kind of like visiting ancient ruins. There are also deer and peacocks roaming around, which I enjoyed chasing though the forest.

The next day we tried to go to Mahatma Gandhi National Park, but it was closed. I did some Snorkeling. After that we returned to Port Blair and ran some errands.

We left for Kolkatta that next day and once there we didn’t really do much. The highlight was looking of books along this street, which had a used book store about every 20 feet. One amusing thing, while in the airport at Port Blair I read the sign about prohibited items on the plane. Among the usual items such as guns and knives, they list banana peels, chili pepper, and pickles. I guess they fear some sort of cartoon mischief on the plane.

We left Kolkatta the day after we got there for Katmandu. Nothing to eventful about the flight or customs, except for the fact that among the items that you can have only one of to go though the green line at customs, they list tricycles. Now how many tricycles could you conceivably bring with you and why would bring more then one.

Our first night in Katmandu we went out for dinner at this restaurant. They mentioned that they had fondue. Of course we ordered one. When the bill arrived we discovered that the pot of fondue cost no less then 2000 NPR (29US). Kind of silly if you ask me, but what can you do. We also went to casino in the hotel were the restaurant was in and I turned 500 INR (10US) in to 2600NPR (38US) So I guess I made back the money for the fondue.

The next day, yesterday, we went sightseeing around. The highlight by far was the temple where they cremate the dead. WE were fortunate enough to see almost the entire process as they loaded a body and lit it ablaze. Quite surreal. WE also went to a large dome shaped temple and met some kids who are fascinated by digital cameras and a temple high up on hill that provided amazing views. The architecture of these temples easily matches if not exceeds that of the cathedrals in Europe and some were built centuries, if not millennia before, part of one that we went to dated back to 250 BCE and most dated to the early part of the second millennium CE.

That evening we went shopping for clothes for Tibet. Nepal is by far the best place for outdoor goods. I got a down coat, down pants, fleece pants, and a fleece jacket, sunglasses, and gloves, all for less then 100US. These were all name brand and of good quality.

Today we are going to do some more sightseeing and buy some carpets. Since I am adding to this I can foresee that we will go to a temple complex were will meet this kid who will take us to his art school. There we will learn about various sorts of religious paintings and purchase a couple of wheel of life paintings. Finally we will go to a carpet factory were we will purchase three carpets
For the last four days I have been diving in Havelock Island. Basically I woke up had some breakfast then went out on a boat for two dives, got back read a little, had some dinner and went to bed. The diving there was damn right amazing. Saw some huge fish, lots of coral and even a couple of lion and rock fish. Unfortunately I didn’t see any rays or turtles, but oh well. We got back to Port Blair yesterday and laid around for a bit. The way we got back was by helicopter. Having never been on a helicopter before it was a lot of fun. Got to see some great views of the islands and it only took 15 minutes to get to port Blair as opposed to 3-5 by boat.

Last night we went to cellular jail, which was were the British kept political prisoners during there reign. Every night they have a commemorative laser light show. I have never seen something commemorated in quite that way. On one hand it is rather informative about the history of the prison, but on the other hand it is very very odd. Sort of like the bottles of water that they sell at robbin island in South Africa.

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